Two Canoes, Three Months, Two Thousand Kilometers

Four friends have set off on a 2000 km journey starting on Lake Hovsgol in Northwest Mongolia with plans of making it all the way to Lake Baikal, the worlds deepest inland lake which is located in Russia.

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Here is an update of their expedition posted on the Kokatat Expedition page which has been provided by Sarah McNair-Landry.

Violent head winds sabotaged our forward progress, quickly building up formidable waves. We were only 2 km from shore but the constant clasps of thunder and the distant sound of pelting rain reminded us that we had little time to spare.

Hours earlier our paddles sliced through the crystal clear cyan blue water as we took our first strokes heading south. Lake Khovsgol, still frigid even in the hottest months, proved gentle and calm, at least till the dark thunder clouds built late in the afternoon, often erupting in spectacular electrical storms.

We spent six days paddling the giant lake, heading towards its sole outflow to the south, the Eg River.
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In full flood, the braided river post more challenges than we expected. The river had few rapids, yet its persistent current took us whipping around many tight turns, often too discover a strainer hiding just around the bend. We proceeded with caution, strainers seemed to be everywhere; some fallen trees even blocked the entire river forcing us to portage.

Slowly the Eg grew in size, weaving through the Mongolian forest and steppe. Mongolia has one of the world’s lowest population densities, often leading us to believe we were completely alone in the wilderness. Yet with 50% of the population either semi-nomadic or truly-nomadic, live-stock and gers (Mongolian yurts) are often sheltered in the lush valleys along the river.

Herds of goats, horses, sheep and yaks flock to the river banks to cool off and drink, often followed by their owners, herdsman who equally depends on the water for drinking. We rarely pass by unseen, our red canoes are an unusual method of transportation, and often people wave us over towards shore; some simply to share a bottle of vodka, others invite us in to share a meal and spend the night in their dwelling.

After over 500 km, the Eg merges with the Selenge River which became our highway into Russia. With decent current and occasional tail winds, we transformed our canoes into a catamaran-raft, sometimes sailing but often simply drifting past our last stretch of Mongolian countryside.

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Now in the town of Sukhbaatar, our next challenge is to cross the Russian border, which lies about 5 km away. With Mongolia now behind us, tomorrow we will enter Siberia.

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For more information on the expedition check out the Kokatat Blogs and the Expedition website at www.expeditionvada.com and of course Canoeroots blogs and features.

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